Big Wave Profile

Homework:

1. Design a blog post on your blog of a big wave site from different parts of the world. Be sure to describe the geography and the topography of the ocean floor in these areas and how this helps create these massive waves. check out http://www.extremehorizon.com/surf-shop/big_waves.html for big waves around the world.

Teahupoo

Teahupoo is located off the South West corner of Tahiti. This wave is generated by open ocean swells hitting the coral atoll reef with Hawaiian type power. This wave throws forward an immense lip which constructs a tube that a truck could easily fit through.

Surfing at Teahupoo is very dangerous as it is a reef break and surfers must be cautious when paddling out as not to get hurt by the deadly reefs. It has taken a few lives as it breaks on a shallow reef.

The waves are formed by open ocean swells building up immense momentum before smashing into coral reef. Emerging from deep water onto a barely submerged reef, the power of the Pacific is suddenly concentrated, and the combination of heavy waves and a shallow shoreline is extremely dangerous. A wipeout can result in serious injuries or even death, and only expert surfers in peak physical condition stand a chance.

The shallow waters and the dangerous reefs make this big wave spot a very dangerous experience that results in great injury. The power of the wave with the huge mass behind it can shred a persons back very easily.

The Science of Big Waves

Pre-viewing:

1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started? 
Ocean waves come from the wind. They are started by the wind pushing the water and as the force of wind becoming stronger the waves will become bigger. They are pushed across the ocean and eventually the come into the shore where they are ready to be surfed.


2. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing?
A surfer should know how powerful the wave will be so as to know how to ride it. They should look at it as it comes so that they can determine if it will be a dangerous wave to ride or a good one to ride.




Question for the Video:



1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions.
There are waves that roll over slowly and some that roll over very quickly. The ones that roll over slowly are great for surfing as it gives you more time at that height that is so incredible at Maverick's. The ones that roll over quickly can be dangerous if not executed properly as they have the potential to dump you straight into the water.


2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?
Waves are formed 1000's of miles away in a place called the wave factory in the north pacific. Using satellite technology the sea is able to be monitored. Meteorologists are able to monitor the growing swell and find out when the waves will strike.


3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?
A maverick wave is the name given to the waves that form at Mavericks. It is special because it is formed thousands of miles away and it increases during the time it takes for it to get to Mavericks.


4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave?
Energy comes from the wind and is used as the wave travels to shore. As the wind continues to blow over the long distances the wave itself will become bigger as it is being pushed. The further and longer the wind blows will determine the size of the wave.


5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.”
They say that all you are thinking about is surviving as it so dangerous to ride. They recommend just riding it for the half mile of run as that is the best part of the surf for the surfers. 

Year 10: 7.3 Geographical Processes Shaping the Coastal Environment

1.

2. 

Tombola

Sand Spit

Offshore sand bar

Coastal lagoon.

Sand dunes

Barrier dune system

Blowhole

Wave cut platform

Sea cave

Natural bridge

Sea stacks

Headland

3.

4.

Year 10: 7.2 Waves - Water on the Move

Year 10: 7.1 Geographical Issues in the Coastal Environment

1. Describe how the settlement pattern of Australia is related to issues in the coastal environment?


85% of Australians live within a 50km radius of the coastline. With all the people moving closer to the coast more houses are going to be built. With the population increasing it will result in pollution, tourism and overall making the area more populated with some bad consequences. 


2. Why is the sustainable development of the coastline the aim of coastal management strategies?


The sustainable development of the coastline is the aim of coastal management strategies because they want to keep the coastline clean so that tourism will stay steady. If the coastline becomes unsustainable then it will become messier and then not so attractive for tourists. This would then result in less business for the locals. 


3. What trend has been labelled 'sea change'?


The trend of people moving from larger cities to smaller coastal towns and villages where the lifestyle is more relaxed. This trend is know as sea change.   


4. Describe one government response to 'sea change'.


The government has imposed new residential caps or a population ceiling to reduce the number of people moving to small towns.


5. Select four of the geographical issues facing the coastal environment presented in this unit. For each issue identify the human actions that cause the issue.


Pollution 
- People dump things such as bacteria into the water that pollutes it .
- People leave things behind when they leave and this is swept into the sea resulting in more pollution that may make the water unsuitable for swimming.


Inappropriate Development
- Developers want to get the best spots so that they can get big profits when they sell. They build apartments on small blocks that block everyone else's views of the beach. They do this so that they can sell to more people while disregarding the fact that they are ugly and do not belong at the water front.


Introduced plants
- Introduced plants can result in the disappearance of native plants.
- Introduced plants are brought in to stop one issue but then often result in another which can destroy the coast's natural beauty.


Tourism and recreational pressures.
- When holiday seasons come tourism can double and when it comes to more four-wheel driving which can result in large dune areas subject to erosion.


6. What role do geographers play in developing management solutions to issues in coastal environments?


Geographers play a huge role in determining whether or not the proposed ideas are suitable for developments and to make sure they are suitable for the coastline.


7. Find an example that you and/or others feel is an example of inappropriate development. Describe why this is considered inappropriate. Give one way that this type of development can be fixed.


I find that some beach front hotels that are in local areas can make beach life very frustrating. When you want to go to the beach that is near a hotel you will mostly find that the beach near the hotel will be packed. So many people go to the beach and when they go there, they are often confronted by large crowds. This can make it difficult for people seeking quiet beaches as they are so hard to find. With more hotels being made there are less beaches for people to stay at. A way of fixing this issue is to try and group the hotels close to one another so that they make up the whole beach front and therefore leave other beaches immune to hotels. This then would still make residents and tourists happy.