The Science of Big Waves

Pre-viewing:

1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started? 
Ocean waves come from the wind. They are started by the wind pushing the water and as the force of wind becoming stronger the waves will become bigger. They are pushed across the ocean and eventually the come into the shore where they are ready to be surfed.


2. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing?
A surfer should know how powerful the wave will be so as to know how to ride it. They should look at it as it comes so that they can determine if it will be a dangerous wave to ride or a good one to ride.




Question for the Video:



1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions.
There are waves that roll over slowly and some that roll over very quickly. The ones that roll over slowly are great for surfing as it gives you more time at that height that is so incredible at Maverick's. The ones that roll over quickly can be dangerous if not executed properly as they have the potential to dump you straight into the water.


2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?
Waves are formed 1000's of miles away in a place called the wave factory in the north pacific. Using satellite technology the sea is able to be monitored. Meteorologists are able to monitor the growing swell and find out when the waves will strike.


3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?
A maverick wave is the name given to the waves that form at Mavericks. It is special because it is formed thousands of miles away and it increases during the time it takes for it to get to Mavericks.


4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave?
Energy comes from the wind and is used as the wave travels to shore. As the wind continues to blow over the long distances the wave itself will become bigger as it is being pushed. The further and longer the wind blows will determine the size of the wave.


5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.”
They say that all you are thinking about is surviving as it so dangerous to ride. They recommend just riding it for the half mile of run as that is the best part of the surf for the surfers.